Basque Country without a car: a 5-day itinerary from Bilbao to San Sebastián

Five days is enough to see the best of Spain's Basque Country without renting a car: two nights in Bilbao, three in San Sebastián, and day trips by Euskotren's narrow-gauge trains and regional buses to Gernika, the Urdaibai coast, Getaria and the French border. Transport for the whole trip typically costs less than €50 per person, and every leg below runs year-round, though the direct bus to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe only operates in summer.

The route at a glance

Day	Base	Plan	Main transport
1	Bilbao	Arrive, old town, Guggenheim riverfront	Airport bus A3247
2	Bilbao	Gernika, Mundaka and Gaztelugatxe	Euskotren to Gernika and Bermeo, then bus
3	San Sebastián	Transfer, Parte Vieja, Monte Urgull	Intercity bus or Euskotren
4	San Sebastián	Zarautz and the coastal walk to Getaria	Euskotren to Zarautz, walk
5	San Sebastián	Hendaye and Hondarribia	Euskotren to Hendaye, small ferry

Day 1: Bilbao's old town and the river

From Bilbao airport, Bizkaibus line A3247 runs to the city centre in roughly 20 to 30 minutes, with stops including Plaza Moyúa and the Termibus bus station. The fare is a few euros; a taxi costs several times more. If you'll ride local transport for a couple of days, buy a Barik card at a metro station. It works on the metro, Euskotren, Bilbobus, Bizkaibus and the Artxanda funicular, and cuts the per-ride price.

Spend the afternoon in the Siete Calles (Zazpi Kaleak) of the Casco Viejo, then walk the river path west to the Guggenheim. Even if you skip the museum, the outdoor sculptures and the walk past the Zubizuri footbridge are free. In the evening, Plaza Nueva is the obvious place for pintxos; prices are per piece, so you control the bill.

Day 2: Gernika, Mundaka and the Urdaibai coast

Euskotren's Bermeo line leaves from Bilbao's Zazpikaleak station and reaches Gernika in a little under an hour. Give yourself two hours there for the Assembly House and its oak tree, the symbol of Basque self-government, and the Peace Museum, which tells the story of the 1937 bombing.

Continue on the same line to Mundaka, a small fishing village at the mouth of the Urdaibai estuary, and on to Bermeo, a working port with a compact old quarter.

Getting to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

The hermitage on its rock islet is the most photographed spot on this coast, and getting there without a car depends on the season. According to the Bizkaia provincial government:

• June to September: Bizkaibus runs a direct line, A3517, from Bilbao, roughly hourly in June and every 30 minutes in July and August.
• The rest of the year: there is no direct bus. Take Bizkaibus A3518 or A3527 to Bakio or Bermeo, then the A3524 taxi-van to the site. It doesn't take Barik, so carry cash.
• Booking: on access-controlled days you must reserve a free ticket in advance on the official booking site. On other days entry is free with no booking. The daily cap is 1,462 visitors.
• The walk: from the main Urizarreta entrance it's 1.2 km down a steep track, then 241 steps up to the chapel. Allow about two and a half hours in total, wear proper shoes and avoid orange-alert weather days.

Doing Gernika, Mundaka and Gaztelugatxe in one day is possible in summer but tight. In winter, choose Gaztelugatxe or Gernika and Mundaka.

Day 3: Bilbao to San Sebastián

You have two good options:

• Intercity bus (PESA and ALSA): about 1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 25 minutes from Bilbao's Termibus station to San Sebastián's bus station, with departures roughly every 30 to 60 minutes. Fares typically fall between about €9 and €13 depending on operator and time.
• Euskotren E1: about 2 hours 35 minutes from Bilbao's Matiko or Zazpikaleak stations to Amara-Donostia, roughly hourly, around €7, with no reservation needed. It's slower but runs through green valleys and small towns, and the fare is lower.

Drop your bags and head to the Parte Vieja. Walk up Monte Urgull for views over La Concha bay, then stroll the promenade toward Ondarreta. San Sebastián's pintxo bars are busiest from about 8pm; many specialise in one or two hot dishes, so ask what's ordered off the menu rather than just picking from the counter.

Day 4: Zarautz and the coastal walk to Getaria

Take Euskotren west from Amara to Zarautz, which has one of the longest beaches on the Basque coast. From the western end of town, a seafront walkway follows the coast to Getaria. Allow about an hour each way at an easy pace.

Getaria is the home of txakoli, the Basque coast's lightly sparkling white wine, and of grilled whole turbot cooked over charcoal in the harbour restaurants. It's also the birthplace of the fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, and the museum dedicated to his work sits above the village. Return the same way, or keep going on Euskotren to Zumaia if you want to see the flysch rock cliffs.

Day 5: Hendaye and Hondarribia

Euskotren runs from Amara to Hendaye, just over the French border, in about 40 minutes, every 30 minutes, for a few euros. From Hendaye's waterfront, a small passenger ferry crosses the Bidasoa estuary to Hondarribia, a walled town with brightly painted fishermen's houses in its Marina district. Ferry schedules are seasonal, so check times before you set out. Head back to San Sebastián for a last evening, or continue into France by train from Hendaye.

Rough budget for five days

Hotel prices in San Sebastián are among the highest in Spain and climb sharply in July and August, so lodging drives the total. A rough per-person estimate for a mid-range trip sharing a double room:

Item	Estimate per person
Transport (airport bus, trains, buses, ferry)	€35 to €50
Accommodation, 5 nights shared double	€350 to €650, higher in peak summer
Food and drink (pintxos, one sit-down meal a day)	€200 to €300
Museums and entry fees	€30 to €60
Total	About €615 to €1,060

Treat these as ranges, not quotes. Check current fares on the Euskotren website before you travel.

Before you go

• Two transport cards: Barik covers Bizkaia (Bilbao) and Mugi covers Gipuzkoa (San Sebastián). Single tickets work fine for a short stay.
• Station names: Euskotren's San Sebastián terminus is Amara-Donostia, not the Renfe mainline station.
• Gaztelugatxe closures: avoid 24 June, 31 July, 29 and 31 August and 30 December, when local celebrations take over the site.
• Timing: May, June and September give long days and lower prices than peak summer. Winter is quieter and cheaper but wetter, and some coastal services run less often.